Rick Owens brings a bold dystopian vision to Paris Fashion Week

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PARIS (AP) — Rick Owens brought a bold, dystopian energy to Paris Fashion Week on Thursday, turning the Palais de Tokyo into a stark, industrial stage.

Strobe lights cut through the darkness like futuristic prison bars, as shaved-headed models with eerie contact lenses marched in towering boots and jackets with oversized, upturned collars. The result was an alien-like, imposing but surreal and unsettling aesthetic.

The collection drew on the U.S. designer's long-standing connection to the industrial town of Concordia in northern Italy, where years of working in isolation shaped his creative vision.

“This cloistered life seems to be what it takes to be able to focus on reaching for something weird and wonderful,” Owens said, reflecting on the inspiration behind the designs.

Cropped tops with exaggerated, rounded shoulders revealed the fragility of the torso, while flowing, hooded coats and tasseled flared pants brought a sense of gothic drama. The designs felt like a mix of ancient ritual and futuristic rebellion.

Materials played a key role in creating the collection’s raw, industrial feel.

Chain-link skirts and boots made from handwoven leather, bleached alligator jackets, and bronze-treated denim with cracked surfaces added bold textures. Sustainability was also central, with eco-certified wool thermals and water-saving denim treatments adding a responsible edge to the collection.

David Bowie’s “Heroes,” sung in French, German, and English, added a haunting backdrop, giving the show a reflective and emotional tone.

While Owens’ signature elements — like towering boots and exaggerated shapes — may feel familiar, his ability to push boundaries and reject traditional ideas of beauty keeps his work powerful and thought-provoking.